April 10 – With the hoist repaired it was only a matter of lifting the engine out of the car since all of the prep work had already been done. Three hours later the other engine was out of the donor car. We then loaded up the car onto a trailer along with the replacement engine and headed off to the car wash to get rid of the amazing layer of gunk in the engine compartment.
Once back home it was time to assess what parts may need replacing before the donor car’s engine could be put into the car. The first round of parts to be ordered: clutch kit (Ireland Engineering), rear main seal and pilot bearing (Car Quest) and a pilot bearing puller tool (Harbor Freight).
Waiting for the new parts to arrive gave us a chance to find out what was wrong with the original engine. The engine ran when we got the car but had a definite knock. Once we got a good look inside we discovered that the bolts that hold the connecting rod had come loose. When we removed the oil pan we found a connecting rod nut in the bottom of the pan. Oops. Apparently the previous owner’s son had attempted to adjust the timing most likely without any real knowledge of how to do this. From a restoration standpoint it’s kind of a shame since the car would be completely original had the engine not been destroyed.
April 24 – We ran into one snag with our new parts. Ireland Engineering sent us the wrong clutch kit. They sent us the 228 clutch kit instead of the 215. Luckily our donor car had the proper size flywheel. With the new parts installed it was time to get the engine into the car. Thankfully we were able to move the project into a garage as Mother Nature seems to be having a good time messing with the weather. The Monster Shed Crew was in full force and after a good solid day of serious laboring the engine was in. All she needed was a little coaxing to turn over and then she was running under her own power.
After taking the car for a quick trip down the road to warm up the engine we discovered a problem. The water wasn’t circulating through the radiator causing the car to eventually run hot. We removed the thermostat and tested it by submerging it in a pan of water which was heated to the required temperature which was 176° where the thermostat should open. Lo and behold, the thermostat remained shut. The thermostat from the original engine was tested and found to be in working order. A couple more trips down the road and another problem was discovered — a faulty water pump. Luckily, our local Car Quest can get us parts overnight at no extra cost. The car is remarkably easy to work on (so far) and the water pump replacement only took a couple of hours to do.
Cost of project to date: $1486.19
Rear main seal – $28.80
Pilot bearing – $13.80
Bearing puller tool – $48.98 (w/s&h)
Clutch kit – $236.76 (w/s&h)
Water pump – $65.78